Sunday, March 11, 2007

Following Dubya

Regardless of what you think of the man's politics, the man has definitely got one thing right: Latin America is worth a visit.

When a friend asked for recommendations on a beach hotel recently, we rattled off a list. Then it occurred to us that, without trying to, we seemed to be aiming for Latin shores. While many Spanish-speaking destinations have not pursued their tourism marketing to the extent of say, Hawaii or the Canary Islands, that may be to your advantage: you'll find relatively lower rates at some properties that offer attentive service and more to do than just bask on the beach (although personally we love basking). Below, a varied group of suggestions for getaways a la playa, with rates for the end of April:


Paradisus Playa Conchal, Costa Rica - This all-inclusive resort, a member of The Leading Hotels of the World that's sprawled out over 2400 acres, is noteworthy for catering equally well to adults and children. Family Concierge suites feature child-specific amenities such as mini-sized bathrobes, minibars stocked with drinks for kids and adults, and nightly turndown service with milk and cookies. Their Kids' Club will welcome your infant as well as older children, leaving you free to explore the golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones II, the spa, casino or the adult-only pool. Of course, there's a pool the kids can enjoy with you, and specific events designed just for families.

Rates are $718 night for the Family Concierge Suite (all-inclusive)

Sivory Punta Cana, Dominican Republic - This member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World is not overflowing with child-specific amenities, but it's a breathtaking property that caters to all of its guests with style. The focus here is on relaxation and cuisine, with a spa that offers up a Vichy shower and numerous body treatments, and restaurants featuring Mediterranean, French and Asian-fusion cooking. If that's not enough to help you relax, an 8,000 bottle wine cellar and a private beach should do the trick.

Rates start at $480 a night for a deluxe junior suite, and go to $850 a night when including their meal plan. Note that children ages 2-6 are charged a nominal fee, and children over 6 are charged as adults.




Early evening in a Morgan's Rock guestroom

Morgan's Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge, Nicaragua - Morgan's Rock is just one facet of a large reforestation and conservation program that stretches out over 1000 hectares. The owners take their commitment to ecotourism seriously: furniture in the rooms and bungalows was made from wood left over from construction of the lodge, lamps were made using leftover metal, and the pool uses natural salt instead of chlorine. The staff protects the sea turtle eggs laid on the lodge's private beach, and the owners have reintroduced native flora and fauna to their property. None of this means sacrificing the good life, however: wonderfully fresh and delectable meals are made on property (and included in your room rate), and all bungalows feature king-size beds, sofas, private outdoor showers, and westward-facing decks from which to view the glorious sunsets. The lodge actively encourages your interest in the surroundings with tours of the property, and you can also go mountain biking, kayaking or fishing.

Rates begin at $225 per person for a double, with children paying $115, and include 3 meals, local non-alcoholic drinks and a limited choice of 2 daily tours.

Pueblo Bonito Rose, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico - This resort is rated #1 by TripAdvisor's travelers for family hotels in Cabo San Lucas. Perhaps a little over the top with the attempts at Mediterranean decor, the property nonetheless features nicely-furnished rooms with full kitchenettes (we'd go for the Luxury Suites, which include the sofa bed that Junior Suites don't). There's also a calm-water beach, a kids' club for the 4 and up group, and daily activities including lessons in Spanish and salsa.

Rates start at $299 a night for a Junior Suite, $374 for a Luxury Suite

Hasta la vista!

Friday, March 9, 2007

Take A Sabbatical & Hit the Road


We all have lists of places we'd like to go before we die. Frommer's 500 Places to Take Your Kids Before They Grow Up by Holly Hughes is putting a tighter deadline on your plans.

But not a bad idea, really; it's certainly a way to lend some focus to your travel plans. Suggestions are all over the globe and span a wide variety of interests. You'll find the usual suspects here: the Eiffel Tower, Disneyland, Easter Island and the Dead Sea (which is evaporating rapidly and might soon be the Extinct Sea) all make the cut. But with 500 recommendations, you're sure to find somewhere you hadn't thought of going. We, for instance, hadn't realized that the Mack Truck assembly plant was exciting enough to be a "destination", nor had we thought to set our sights so close to home as Hartford, Connecticut.

We may not make it to all of these destinations. We may not even want to. But there is somewhere in this book for everyone, and plenty of reasons to plan your next vacation.

www.frommers.com/bookstore
$19.99

Thursday, March 8, 2007

Special Offer of the Week - Fairmont Chateau Laurier, Ottawa


From March 1st to March 27th, the Fairmont Chateau Laurier in Ottawa is offering a getaway package for the entire family.

Your package rate includes accommodations for one night, breakfast, a family pass to the Museum of Civilization and IMAX Theater, and free meals for children 5 and under. Rates start at $279CAD a night and are based on 2 adults and 2 children.

Ottawa, Canada's capital city, boasts over 29 museums and over 60 festivals. Sparks Street Pedestrian Mall makes for great shopping.

For more information on this package, visit Fairmont Hotels & Resorts.

Wednesday, March 7, 2007

Wine Without Whine

You read Wine Enthusiast, albeit occasionally. You enjoy the sharp, witty and unpretentious columns of Food & Wine Editor Lettie Teague. You're no wine expert, but you love tasting and learning about wine and would love to tour a vineyard or two. The only problem is, you have young children, and the closest thing to a wine tour you've experienced in recent memory is following a trail of Welch's Grape Juice spattered on the floor by your four-year old.

We're happy to tell you that you don't have to wait until darling Sydney is in college to visit a tasting room. Napa Valley has several child-friendly vineyards that will cheerfully accommodate your little ones as you learn more about their wines. Mind you, they're not running a babysitting service while you stroll through the vineyard becoming one with the terroir - you'll still need to keep an eye on your offspring. But little touches can make the trip feasible and even enjoyable for all ages; you might even be able to learn a thing or two with the younger set engaged for a few minutes.

The following wineries identify themselves as family-friendly places:


Alpha Omega: Releasing their first wine in July 2006, this winery features picnic areas and a pond with ducks and geese to keep little ones entertained. They are open to the public and do not make appointments.
707.963.9999


Dutch Henry: This family-owned and operated winery in Calistoga allows not just children, but also well-behaved dogs, perhaps to romp with the playful canines in residence. Children can also pick vegetables and fruit while visiting. They're open daily from 10:00 to 4:30, but their website suggests calling to set up a visit.
888.224.5879


St. Supery Vineyards & Winery: This winery welcomes children with coloring books and a winery quiz sheet, the answers to which can be found in the boards of the winery's exhibit. No appointments are necessary and they're open seven days a week.
707.963.4507


Tres Abores: Although you'll need to set an appointment to tour this winery, the warm welcome you'll receive is well worth the small effort. Sheep, goats, Golden Retrievers and a cat named Violet are all on hand to play with. And despite our warning above about no babysitting, here you can even inquire about having one of the family's teens watch your youngster should you wish to hike through their vineyards.
707.967.8027

If you're planning to be in Napa for several days, check the Napa Valley Vintners website: this link takes you straight to the page where several other family-friendly wineries are listed.

Roughing It But Not Really - AKA "Glamping"

It's time to plan your next vacation. The children have come up with the brilliant idea of going camping. You, on the other hand, had visions of spas, room service and a general atmosphere of luxury. You are, it would seem, at an impasse.

Au contraire. Welcome to the growing trend of "glamping", which we first read about via Gadling. Coming from the term "glamorous camping", glamping is putting style and pampering into camping. This is something we find to be totally agreeable, and the only question is, what took so long?

It's really not that new of an idea: people have been going on safari like this for years. Now, the concept has come out of Africa, so to speak, and has really taken off with our friends across the pond. England is rife with companies offering "glamping" supplies, from white Indian-style tents made in Pakistan to jute carpets that will protect pedicured feet from the earthy floor. It seems that someone got wind of Kate Moss glamping, and now the world has run amok with copycats who, of course, need to be similarly accoutred.

In the US & Canada, the movement has gone beyond the bespoke tent to offer full-fledged vacations that include pampering previously unheard of while camping. The oft-mentioned Clayoquot Wilderness Resorts & Spa in British Columbia offers camping the way it should be done (see their lovely tents above and below). Especially enticing are the family suite tents, which come with queen-bed, convertible chesterfield with queen mattress, and a lounge area with a game table. Add in luxurious down duvets and area rugs you'd happily grace your floors with, and this really isn't so bad, now is it?

But wait, you say. It's all fine and good to speak of sleeping in luxury, but will I emerge from the woods looking like something out of a horror movie? Have no fear - here you'll find hot water for showers as well as power for hair dryers. Even wireless internet is doable here, should you find the need to be less connected to the outdoors and more connected to, say, this blog. (And yes, they have modern composting toilets that we are sure will not require the use of anything so rustic as a page from the NY Times.)

We have already decided that we must go glamping, if only for the sheer fun of indulging in something with such a ridiculous name. And we must admit, at Clayoquot the activities offered are fun for both us and the children: kayaking, biking, and bear watching are just a few, and how much better to retreat to a downy mattress in a luxurious tent when you're done? Whatever you call it and wherever you do it, camping "in the manner to which we've become accustomed" is an idea whose time has come, and we'll be looking for more places to pursue this new trend in travel.

Tuesday, March 6, 2007

For the Toddler Jetset


We're not going to judge you if you've flown with a baby on your lap instead of in a carseat, but once kiddo reaches age two, you've got to ante up the dollars to get him his own ticket. We don't know about you, but the first time we put D in a seat by herself she didn't look the slightest bit safe - we had visions of her either slipping right under the belt or breaking her neck with whiplash.

Thankfully, we can now feel a little bit more secure when we head for the skies. CARES, an FAA-approved harness for children, is a recent entry on the market and a must-have for those too big for a car seat but too small to be truly protected by a mere seatbelt. According to their website, CARES (which stands for "child aviation restraint system") has been designed for children 1 and older, weighing between 22 and 44 pounds. It fits all economy and business-class seats, and should fit all but the biggest of first class seats as well.

You've probably seen similar devices on the market, but CARES is the first product that uses the five-point harness that defines safety in carseats. More importantly, it's the only product to be approved by the FAA for all aspects of flying. (Other devices are not approved for takeoff and landing.) It's probably a hell of a lot safer than us throwing our hands across D's chest whenever the plane hits a bump, and the $75 pricetag is a small price to pay for her safety and our peace of mind.


www.kidsflysafe.com
$74.95

New Look, Same Us

Okay, it's not like we've been out for years and years - but we still thought we needed to update our look. We were eager to get up and running so we plugged in what you originally saw and started typing away, but over time we started to feel strongly that a fresher look was needed. We wanted the site's look to convey cool and hip luxury, not stuffy and staid. After all, this is about including children, and how buttoned up can you possibly be with a two-year old climbing all over you while a twelve-year old hits you with a pillow?

We hope you like the look and that it's also a tad easier on the eyes. We look forward to building up a treasure trove of information that is relevant for the stylish traveler who, like us, insists that kids can be - and should be - a part of the luxury experience.

Caribbean Escapes



So we're in Montego Bay, lounging across the squeaky bed at the Ritz-Carlton (see more on that in our previous post), when we come across this massive tome tucked away in the nighttable. Too big to be the Bible and too pretty to be the yellow pages, we had to investigate further.

The book, roughly the weight of the stone tablets God gave to Moses, is a stunning journey through top luxury resorts throughout the Caribbean and Latin America. Culled from the ranking lists of Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Elite Traveler and other luxury travel publications, the resorts in here are the creme de la creme of the Caribbean, with a few select choices from Latin America. The writing comes from top travel writers in the industry, but we were really wowed by the large pages with impressive photos, which helped us to imagine ourselves on-site with particular vividness.

The great thing is that the company's website allows you to do more than just dream - they'll help you get there. Caribbean Escapes is a full-blown marketing company, with a website booking engine that helps you to stop dreaming and start packing. If you're not ready to go but still want to dream, you can order the book online. (We really wanted to steal ours from the Ritz but it was too damn heavy and big to fit into our already stuffed bags - bummer for us, good for the people at Caribbean Escapes, who would surely be replacing these at a higher rate if it was more portable).

In the spirit of full disclosure, we should point out that we know the publisher of the book and the owner of the company. However, we didn't realize that he was heading up this venture until well after we'd started pawing through the book and salivating. A former colleague from our days of corporate serfdom, he's gone on to create an impressive company, with the book as merely one facet of a multi-pronged marketing plan that focuses on giving you, the consumer, one definitive place to go for all your luxury travel research. Hie thee to the website and order a copy. While we can't promise that every resort in here is family-friendly, there are more than enough to keep you occupied for several trips to come.

www.caribbeanescapes.com
$45.00

Sunday, March 4, 2007

The Ritz-Carlton, Golf & Spa Resort, Rose Hall, Jamaica




Our recent stay at the Ritz-Carlton in Jamaica was all the more necessary for all the passport drama we endured in the week leading up to our departure (see our previous post). Now we are back in sub-zero temperatures, and it already feels like we need another vacation.

Sigh. Ah well. We can but dream, and relive the warmth of both the climate and the Jamaican staff as we tell you all about it...

Resort: The resort is typical Ritz-Carlton, luxury in a classic, rather staid setting. You'll be well-taken care of here, but if modern, interesting or innovative architecture is your thing, look elsewhere - you'll experience no ahhhh moment when you walk through the lobby doors for the first time, or into your room. The beach is also small and rocky - water shoes are a must for kids and certainly advisable for parents. We knew this and were prepared, but we saw more than one group turn away from the surf when they passed from sandy to rocky.

Room Pros: There really was nothing incredibly remarkable about our garden-view standard room, except perhaps what first struck us as a bilious shade of green that actually worked with the plantation-style furnishings and brightly colored rug. (Rooms are also painted in yellow or pink.) The king bed was very comfortable with lots of pillows. There was also a desk, and two desk chairs, a separate armchair, and bed bench offered ample additional seating. Our closet had the usual safe (which could hold a small laptop if you stood it on end), an umbrella, and an ironing board and iron. The separate water closet and double-sink marble vanity in the bathroom were typical Ritz touches, and D got a kick out of waving to either of us from her bath while we showered in the glass-enclosed marble stall across the bathroom (the door handle allowed for strategically draping a towel so that lower regions were covered from her view). We also loved the lit makeup mirror - it was perfect for shaving and makeup and it performed double duty as a nightlight at bedtime.

Room Cons: At 480 square feet, the room was good for an adult couple but a bit small for a couple with a child. Mind you, we're not complaining - it was a perfectly serviceable room and we didn't feel like sardines, it's just that we like a bit more space. The balcony had a railing of stone columns, spaced just far enough for D to look out without our having to worry about her falling. The one touch we would have loved - and which would have been perfectly placed in this British colonial-styled room - would have been a ceiling fan.

The beds were a tad squeaky: we thought it was just ours but the point was driven home when our neighbors got frisky in the wee hours of the morning. With that and the ecstatic moans, we realized: hmmm, not really soundproof in here. (Not that you or your kids would be loud for your respective reasons, but if you were thinking about it, take note.)

Room Service: Our room service experience was, for the most part, a pleasure. The food was always promised in 30 minutes, we always got it in the allotted time, and the food was quite good - there just weren't enough choices. The spare menu left us bored after three meals.

Restaurants: You've got a few restaurants to choose from here. We never made it to White Witch, the Ritz's clubhouse restaurant on its golf course. A complimentary shuttle takes you to and from but we were admittedly too lazy to pursue it. Horizon serves a casual breakfast that includes an all-you-can-eat-buffet, and a resort casual dinner. Jasmine is an adult-only restaurant and probably the only place aside from the golf course itself that you'll find no children. Mangos is their beachside restaurant: they do the pool service and the dinner we had there one night was excellent. Unfortunately we never made it to the Reggae Jerk Center, a casual lunch spot on the beach, but were excited that this upscale property was offering a literal taste of local culture, a feature too many resorts go out of their way to avoid in the Caribbean. Don't make our mistake and miss it.

Service Pros: As would be expected, the service here was extremely attentive without being intrusive or overbearing. Every request was met with grace - D's nightly off-the-menu dinner requests for Frosted Flakes or Rice Krispies, both at the restaurant and for in-room dining, were mildly chuckled at and happily fulfilled.

Service Cons: The only con, if this can be said to be one, was that the staff was almost too enamored of D. We weren't worried about D being spirited away by trespassers on the property, but we sure had to keep an eye out for the staff: one pool waitress informed us with a bold smile that she was taking D for a walk. We smiled hesitantly, not wanting to appear distrustful, but 10 minutes later when there was no sign of her or our daughter, panic began to set in. Mind you, it wasn't that we didn't trust the staff. It was that we are city parents who don't trust anyone. Hubby went to find D and found her happily chomping on a dripping ice cream bar while her self-styled nanny chatted with a friend - she said she wanted to give us, the parents, some time alone. (Nice thought, but we prefer to plan our alone time rather than have our offspring suddenly kidnapped.) While D never actually disappeared again, it wasn't for lack of trying, and she was offered all sorts of ice cream, cookies, and candy by the staff who dubbed her Princess. We rued having to wean her off of all that junk when we got home, but it was obvious that this staff, both men and women, genuinely likes children.

Mom & Dad Stuff: There is a small but well-serviced fitness center, with apples, bananas and water readily available for exercising adults. The adjacent spa offers a wealth of facial, massage and beauty treatments. We treated ourselves to an Island Aromatherapy massage and a Maternity Massage, both much needed. Our only complaints: The therapist for the maternity massage started with cold hands and cold oil, not a pleasant beginning in an air-conditioned room. And the hallway outside the treatment rooms was often filled with chattering and laughing staff, which kept us from achieving the blissful nirvana we aim for when having our sore muscles pampered...

You'll probably see this in a lot of future posts, but we were not thrilled that internet access cost an additional $14.95 a day. We think that in this day and age, that should be an included cost. Perhaps not everyone is using it, but they could add $2.00 a day to the vague resort fees that most places charge (funny, we thought that the room rate was the resort fee), and they'd still come out ahead. We paid more for three days of internet access than we pay per month at home.

Wee Amenities: The Kids' Menu has an extremely limited selection of the usual suspects: mac and cheese, hot dog, hamburger, chicken fingers, green salad and grilled cheese sandwich. This may be due to the fact that most young children only like about three foods, but even D got bored with the choices after the second day and started pulling her meal choices out of thin air. Thankfully, this presented no problems with the aim-to-please staff. (If you've been smart and lucky enough to get your kids to eat from the adult menu, know that their meals might cost you extra in the all-inclusive plans - see below.)

There is a small children's playground set off to the side of the property, but we never saw anyone using it, perhaps because most of the kids we saw were in the 3-and-under crowd? D played on it a few times and thoroughly enjoyed herself.

There is also a Ritz-Kids Program. Kids ages 5 and up can attend so we weren't able to try it out, but it looked pretty comprehensive, with half- and full-day programs as well as themed Kids Nights Out four nights a week, all of which cost extra. The helpful brochure includes some unexpected info, like the 3-step disciplinary procedure they'll use should your little angel turn into Damien after you drop him off: a warning, a timeout, and finally a call to you to pick up your evil spawn.

Special Tips: If you have young children and are booking your travel online using Expedia, Orbitz or the like, don't book any additional activities when booking your travel. JTL, the same company that was included on Expedia's website for additional tour bookings, also has a desk at the Ritz. By booking tours on-site, we avoided being charged for D on two out of three tours where Expedia's engine would have charged us for her automatically. The desk was also able to provide a lot more information about how long tours would last, how appropriate one would be for a particular age group, and what any particular activity entailed.

This property currently features an All-Inclusive Package that we strongly urge as a must-buy. We booked our original package without it and then added it on for what was only an additional $148 a day. We were easily spending over $200 a day on meals (3 virgin pina coladas by the pool were $21, for instance), so in the end adding it saved us money. However, we have read reports that trying to add the package after your arrival could entail steeper costs, so it makes sense to do this ahead of time. Until April 30th, kids under 4 eat free from the Kids Menu when parents pay for this plan, and from May 1 to December 19th, children under 11 eat free from the Kids Menu. (We found the resort to be very accommodating when D ate off-menu, however, perhaps due to the fact that it was just cereal and pizza that she was ordering - we were not charged for those choices.)

Final Notes: We were surprised to see that this place was crawling with children. We'd read that this was a child hotspot on some websites like Tripadvisor and just chalked it up to coincidence, but it seems that no matter when you go, you're going to meet up with toddlers and young ones in abundance. The resort staff must be accustomed to catering to the younger set - kids receive the same gracious welcome and treatment that their parents do. (We also noted at least five other pregnant women with toddlers, perhaps also on their final babymoons before #2 arrived.) While this spot is not a must-repeat for us, due to its rather uninspired setting and the wealth of more unique properties both in Jamaica and elsewhere, we certainly felt at ease with our child and could conceivably come back for a quick carefree vacation on a long weekend.

Kid Grade: A: for their lavish attention to children
Parent Grade: B+: attentive service in a rather forgettable setting

Thursday, March 1, 2007

We Made It - "No Problem"

Just a quick update - the passport arrived in Saturday morning's mail, literally 24 hours before we were to be at the airport. Talk about last minute drama.

We'll of course be posting a hotel review once we return so stay tuned. In the meantime, for more information on our destination, check out the Jamaica Tourist Board. This has to be the best place for us to be after the stress and drama of our passport ordeal and we can't wait to tell you all about it.

Friday, February 23, 2007

Passport to Nowhere

We hadn't thought it necessary to post about the recent changes in passport requirements, figuring that as savvy travelers, you were probably well aware of all that you needed to have and do to continue being the global citizens you are. However, in light of our own recent problems renewing our passport, we thought it might be helpful to take you along on our journey to hell - also known as "dealing with the National Passport Information Center."

January 10th - We mail in our passport renewal forms within the 6 week timeframe given as being necessary to turn around a passport. The application specifically asks for upcoming travel plans, so we put down our departure date of 2/25. A niggling thought in our head tells us to go ahead and pay for the expedited service, which would return our passport via Overnight Service in two weeks, but we figure, hey, there's enough time.

We would come to regret this later. Very very much.

January 19th - The NPIC's online status page still shows no signs of our passport being worked on, or even received, so we call. After waiting on hold for 25 minutes, we reach someone who notes that they have received it and it has been forwarded to the processing center in New Hampshire. At this time, we ask if the travel date on our application would be taken into account, and are reasssured that yes, it will be. (This will, of course, turn out to be completely wrong.)

Early February - We check the online status page again; lo and behold, there is an update. Our passport application is in process and will be sent to us via Priority Mail for arrival on or around 2/20. Fabulous.

February 20th - The day comes and goes with no sign of our passport. We know that the status said "on or around", but with it being a short week due to President's Day and our departure in 5 days, we are starting to get a wee bit nervous. We check online again. We now read "on or around 2/24", at which point panic officially sets in. We call the NPIC. We are on hold for ONE AND A HALF HOURS and eventually hang up in both disgust and distress, not to mention that we are going insane hearing the same 5 minute loop of classical music. Their website also allows you to send in an email inquiry, which they say will be responded to within 2 business days, so we send an email as well. (Note: No response is ever received.)

February 21st - We call back just before noon and after a hold time of only 35 minutes, we reach a nice gentleman who confirms that the passport is being WORKED ON (what?) and also mentions that they have no record of any upcoming travel, which nearly sends us into the stratosphere. After explaining that we do indeed have travel plans, which were indicated on the APPLICATION, we're told that he will put in a request to have the passport finished that day and overnighted. He tells us to call back the following day to confirm that those instructions have been received by the office in New Hampshire.

February 22nd - We start calling around 10:45 a.m. and after repeated attempts in which we reach a voice telling us that they are too busy to even put us on hold, we finally succeed at getting into the on-hold queue, which somehow feels like an accomplishment. Twenty minutes later we speak to Kate, who tells us that the passport was finished the night before but that she sees no indication of it going out overnight. She tells us to call back later, which we dread doing. We ask if there is a number or extension we can use that will bypass the hour-long waits - of course the answer is no. We also check the online status again and see an updated delivery date of "on or around 2/26" - one day after our scheduled departure. We would like to threaten to shoot someone (purely to let off steam, you understand) but realize that in a post-9/11 world this will pretty much nullify our chances of getting a US passport in this lifetime and probably the next one too.

1:00 p.m. - We call back the NPIC within an hour of talking to Kate, because we have a long meeting later and don't want to wait until evening when it seems getting through is impossible, even although they are open until midnight. (We would advise you that the best time to reach them seems to be mid-morning except for the fact that reaching them doesn't seem to make one damn bit of a difference one way or the other.) George says he recommends a reissue, and explains that this will invalidate the first passport and make them reissue a new one immediately and send it by FedEx. He shows us where to find a form online that we will need to fill out for the reissue, but rather than just giving us a number to fax it to, it seems he has to take our cell number so that he can forward it to the gerbils in New Hampshire who will then call us and give us the fax number to send it to them, a rather nice demonstration in bureaucracy. We cancel our meeting and wait for our phone call, form in hand.

5:00 pm. - We have been waiting for 4 hours and our grip on the phone resembles rigor mortis. We call NPIC again. The smarmy Rita notes that we've been busy calling all day, and seems to find the whole thing generally amusing. She says that the New Hampshire office has not picked up the request for a reissue yet, which explains why we now have a completely new appreciation for an old country song, "When the Phone Don't Ring You'll Know It's Me". Rita's advice is to gather new photos, proof of upcoming travel, and the form that was supposed to be faxed in, and get thee to the nearest passport agency at 7:30 in the morning, which would require leaving the house by 6:15 a.m. Aside from the fact that we are not even coherent at that hour, we are pregnant and already extremely overwrought, and feel like this last-minute rushing could actually bring our strained and expanding frame to the brink of physical harm - not to mention complete and utter madness. That would certainly kill the vacation, passport or no passport.

We call our travel agency, Expedia, and advise them of the situation. That niggling feeling we'd had earlier had also advised us to insure our trip, and we purchased insurance that allowed us to cancel our trip for any reason. This seems to be the only saving grace, as this move may well save us roughly $3000 in package costs. They instruct us how to cancel the package if necessary (we figure we'll wait until after mail delivery on Saturday just in case) and are nice enough to deposit $100 into our account for a future trip even though none of this is their fault.

We actually start to cry.

Because we do have the option of canceling and rebooking without major financial penalty, we decide to just wait out the passport. Calling the National Passport Information Agency is a joke - most of the time you can't get through at all, and when you are lucky enough to get put on hold, you have to wait for a minimum of 20 minutes. When you finally reach a human, they seem to want to help for the most part, but their efficiency is diminished by the fact that the people who actually have the passport are not reading the messages, but are up there playing around in Second Life, totally unconcerned with those of us in this one. Either that or they are, as we suggested before, not even people but gerbils, a theory we are becoming more convinced of since no one has actually spoken to or received any communication from these so-called "people".

February 23 - Just to see if there are any updates, and to torture ourselves one last time, we make one final call to NPIC. We're on hold for 15 minutes, a record low. The person who answers says our passport went out yesterday. We ask if it was overnighted, he answers that it went out via Priority Mail, the service they normally use. Their website said that two days ago. We wearily mention that our vacation will most likely be shot and he mutters a completely useless "Sorry". We know it's not his fault, but that is the whole problem here - unlike a company that might actually be interested in keeping clients happy, the US government can't be held accountable. They couldn't care less if we lose a few grand on a vacation, and there is no one to hold responsible for the apparent failure to read the travel dates on the renewal application, or the subsequent failures to respond to requests to get the damn thing out a day or two sooner. Because that's all we needed - a day.

It's still not too late. Mail today came and went but there's always tomorrow, our last day before departure, although we are not holding out much hope here. But the lessons here are:

1. If you are renewing your passport and have ANY travel plans within 6-10 weeks, pay for getting your passport expedited so that it arrives within 2 weeks. You do not have to pay an outside agency to do this for you, you can pay the fee yourself along with your renewal fee and forms. You do not even have to show proof of travel (that's usually reserved for those that need passports within 14 days). It will cost you an extra $60 but will save priceless amounts of aggro, not to mention the possible cost of canceling/rebooking your vacation.

2. Insure your trips - always always always. Thank God we got this one right. And check your insurance carefully - not all carriers and packages cover the same thing - many plans only cover cancellation due to illness, death, accident, or some other physical trauma. Our plan, which allows us to cancel for any reason, is a lifesaver, and only cost roughly $50 per person. We have to look at it more carefully - the air may not be reimbursed but rather a credit issued for future travel, which is fine with us since we hope to be in the air within two weeks - but you should always have some sort of insurance, especially if you can already foresee a possible problem with your travel as we did. Don't just assume that everything will be fine.

3. Of course, we'd be negligent if we didn't remind you that as of late January, all US citizens entering the United States by air need a valid US passport. Prior to this, one could travel to many countries in the Caribbean and some in Latin America without a passport: since those countries didn't require a passport but just a birth certificate, you were okay. But remember, it's not the other countries that have changed their requirements, but the US. So although you may be able to get to Panama just showing your birth certificate, you won't be coming back here without a passport.

4. Finally, since we're all about traveling with the kids, yes, all children, regardless of age, need passports too, and both parents will need to appear in person to apply for it (there are exceptions, check here for what those are).

We hope these tips will help you to avoid our drama. We'll let you know if we made it out of here or not.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Pre-Baby Vacation Plans

You're not even a parent yet. You're just eagerly awaiting the arrival of your little one, and you're here because it has occurred to you that once Baby shows up, your vacations, not to mention your life, may go through some changes.

Kudos to you for not being one of those who thinks that life will be exactly the same after baby gets here, with just the small addition of some really cute baby clothes, a spiffed up nursery, and of course, an adorable baby that never cries and sleeps 10 hours a night. Yes, life will change. But it's not too late to cram in one last vacation before Baby arrives, a chance to enjoy some pre-baby bliss and get spoiled like hell.

If you're thinking about where best to spend your last few vacation moments as a childless couple, there's a website just for you. Babymoonfinder.com specializes in helping expectant couples find and plan that wail-free getaway. (Check out Globorati's post on this.)

What's cool about Babymoonfinder.com is that they're not just finding places for you to go - you can go on Expedia or Orbitz and do that yourself. What they help you to do is find any one of the growing number of packages that pamper you with your impending parental status in mind. For instance, the W Hotels in New York feature a Baby Me package, for stays until March 31st, that include a onesie for Baby, a subscription to American Baby magazine, and a gift for Baby that will be sent upon his or her arrival. Other hotels include prenatal massages for Mommy or a couples massage, which we love even more. Fabulous.

Skip on over to Babymoonfinder.com and plan that vacation. Trust us, you may not think you need it, but you do. Once you've planned your babymoon, come back to Child of Leisure: we'll tell you where to tote Junior once he's safely out of the box.

Friday, February 16, 2007

Peapod for the Wee Tot

Our iPods are filled with a wide variety of artists: Bob Marley, Tchaikovsky, the Black Eyed Peas, Coldplay, Billy Idol...

Then, of course, there are the Dora the Explorer hits.

We willingly filled up with all the tunes that D likes because, hey, she has her musical tastes too. But can we tell you how many times we've been home alone with the iPod on shuffle, reliving our teenage years, only to get a sudden blast of Dora singing "Celebration"? Talk about bursting your bubble.

Peapod Toys is coming out with the first mp3 player for infants and toddlers,which we can't wait to try out. Due out in May of this year, it will feature simple controls for toddlers and hold up to 2 hours of audio. The molded rubber construction will make it easy for toddlers or infants to grab and hold, and should also lend it some durability, although we haven't gotten our hands on one to know for sure. Included software will help you to manage the player's library on a PC, and also purchase and download music. As of today, the manufacturer hasn't responded to questions about retail pricing or iTunes compatibility (we're guessing a fat no to that one), so check their website for updates.



The only thing that makes this not so perfect for travel is that it uses a speaker instead of headphones. That, of course, is great for little ears - they'll be plugged up with headphones soon enough - but not so great for the ears of those around Junior on an airplane (or yours in the car, for that matter.) Still, once you reach your destination, your toddler should be pleased with his ability to perform his own dj duties.

www.peapodtoys.com

UPDATE: 2/20/2007

We just heard back from the president of Peapod, who says their mp3 player won't be shipping out for another 12 weeks, with a probable pricetag of about $99. The Peapod will be compatible with any music store with the exception of iTunes. Peapod also plans to have its own website for purchasing and downloading music, with a wide variety of music outside of the traditional children's genre (good call on that one). No word on where you'll find the Peapod yet, so check their website for updates.

Thursday, February 15, 2007

Passport to Cleanliness

Purell is great stuff, and so are antibacterial wipes. But somehow we always forget to bring them along when we travel, even now that we're parents and should really own stock in that stuff. Maybe it's because the large sizes are too cumbersome and the small sizes are - well, too easy to forget?

We've come across something that we think we'll remember to bring along. These soap sheets at Horchow are made for travel, if the fun passport packaging is any clue. Each packet has 20 sheets, and they're sold in sets of 12 packets: 4 each in lavender, lemon verbena, and fresh linen scents, enough to keep the immediate fam fresh and clean for at least a few journeys. (Organizing a large family group trip? These are great pre-departure gifts to give out.) They do require water, so you might want to keep the antibacterial gel handy for those times when a bathroom isn't available. Still, we think these are quite cool, fun - and memorable.

www.horchow.com
$60

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Diapers Deluxe

Diaper bags have come a long way from the days of pink bunnies and blue teddy bears. Check out these options, all lovely enough to have you strutting through airports with flair. You'll be using these long after baby is out of pullups.

Coach Optic Signature Baby Bag

Comes in pink, blue, black and tan. It has an infinite number of pockets (which we find frustrating but you might love) and the changing pad that makes this a diaper bag versus a regular tote.
www.coach.com
$398

Burberry Close Decorative Shackle Buckle

For Burberry-loving moms, a signature diaper bag; in pvc with nylon lining; includes changing pad.
www.burberry.com
$495

Eva Rocker Diaper Bag by Debbie Rott

Leather bag that comes in an array of colors and celebrity styling: black, tan, red, purple, navy, denim, brown and gold. 6 inside pockets and waterproof changing pad.
www.blissliving.com
normally $310, on sale right now for $295

Audrey Bag by Mia Bossi

This bag performs covert diaper duty, which we love: it has a washable changing pad, a removable insert, and detachable straps for snapping onto strollers. We love the computer insert option to tote the laptop, although for a $1300 bag we think it should come gratis (it's an additional $54.50). Supple Italian leather with snake skin trim; also comes in glow and orchid.
www.miabossi.com
$1308

Fleurville Diaper Bag

Leather bag shown in Chocolate Luxe; also comes in black, pink and aqua marine. Comes with see-through wipe case, removable insulated bottle holder, and washable changing cloth.
www.fleurville.com
on sale for $197.95

Stork Sak

A great option for dads but cool for moms who want a hip unisex look; in black or espresso tough cowhide leather. Includes leather trim changing mat; a great laptop bag when diaper duty is over.
www.tuttibella.com
$200

Monday, February 12, 2007

Staying Liquid


It's your last day of vacation. You're somewhere warm and lovely on a beach of warm white/pink/black sand. Or perhaps there's an infinity pool, so named, you think, because you could stay in it until the end of time.

Your flight doesn't leave until mid-afternoon or evening and you've finagled a late checkout, or perhaps there's a suite you can take advantage of for those odd hours between 11 AM checkout and actual departure. Either way, you've worked it so there's enough time to enjoy one last frolic in the water, all the while pretending that you don't have to leave your paradise.

Except...

what to do with those soaking wet bathing suits?

Hmmmm...you could stuff them in the plastic laundry bag the hotel usually provides in the closet, but how common. It would be so much nicer to have your own smart-looking wet bag.

Well now you can. Appropriately named "Wet Bag," the name may not be chic but the style is. Originally designed to hold diaper paraphernalia, these bags come in 3 sizes ranging from small more personal sizes to large hold-the-family-swimwear size. The outside is thick sturdy cotton padded with a polylaminate material, while the inside is, of course, waterproof. There are nine prints to choose from that are appropriate for adults as well as children, and best of all, these bags are completely washable and reusable.

And if you're bathing au naturel, you can always use your Wet Bag for the body washes, colognes and hair products that you can't bring on board anymore.

www.minimebabygear.com
$11.95-$17.95

Friday, February 9, 2007

W New York Union Square





This morning a water pipe burst in our house.

We went blissfully about our business when we woke up, totally unaware that down below in the depths of our basement, chaos was erupting: water cascading out of a pipe at such strength that firefighters could have driven off flames with it. It was only when we were heading out of the house through the basement that we became aware of our own personal Antarctica - big sheets of ice by the garage door, cold water floating everywhere else.

Nice.

What does all of this have to do with the W, you ask? Nothing, except for the fact that we were there the previous night and boy do we wish we were back there now...

The W hotel chain isn't the first one that comes to mind when one thinks "family-friendly." But of course, part of our quest is to find those hotels that may not necessarily make a big deal out of advertising that fact, but that do a bang-up job of welcoming you once you get there.

The W Hotel Union Square definitely does a bang-up job.

Service Pros: When we first arrived at the hotel, coming in out of what felt like sub-zero temperatures, the front desk staff immediately offered our daughter some hot chocolate and apples. A weird combo, yes, but being hungry and cold, hey, it worked. D loved the cocoa so much she had 3 cups, which they kept supplying without complaint. The staff was more than just gracious to D - they genuinely seemed to like children and really pampered her.

Service Cons: The only problem - mainly because of being 5 months pregnant - was the door service. Now, we're usually okay with opening a door for ourselves, but the front doors at the W are heavy, made moreso by the fierce arctic winds churning across Union Square. More often than not we had to open those babies ourselves because the lone doorman was already occupied. Note to management: can you get more doormen? Please? We can vouch for the fact that you sometimes actually have more than one guest entering and/or leaving the hotel at a time...

Room Pros: We had a Spectacular room, which was definitely big enough for two adults and a toddler not to feel cramped, and did feel rather spectacular. The room sported a king-sized bed with really plush down pillows that I wanted to steal; cots and cribs are available and the room easily accommodates either one. The room is nicely decorated in neutral beige and brown tones, complemented by eggplant and gray touches like throws on the chairs and throw pillows that were also soft and huggable. The DVD player was a big hit, especially since we were prepared for it with a Laurie Berkner DVD for D. (W has a selection of DVDs for you to choose from but we didn't get to see how much of it is kid fare.) D also liked the cool lounge music already loaded into the bedside CD player and we danced around the room to it like lunatics in front of the floor length mirror (see more on that below).

For some reason we never seem to have enough towels when we travel. That was not a problem here. Washcloths and bath towels were big, plentiful and plush. The tile around the bathtub made it feel more like a homey NYC apartment than a hotel, which was a nice touch.

Room Cons: The duvet cover on the bed was a mauve matte silky material, which had us running around behind D as she gobbled up her pizza and fries out of fear that she would leave greasy fingerprints on the damn thing. Of course, she did manage to get one or two small ones on there. Oops.)

There was a fabulous mirror, at least 7 feet tall and framed in hardwood, propped up against the wall. We loved it and if staying sans toddler, we would have loved it even more. The problem was, all of us loved it: D kept hugging it and leaning on it. We kept seeing images of it crashing down on her, which made it hard to relax and appreciate her healthy self-image as she vigorously kissed and hugged her reflection.

The window in our room (# 2007) was very narrow, although it had a great night view. But since the ceilings were extremely tall and the drapes were heavy as well as ceiling high, it was impossible to close them - we couldn't get the drapery to move across the rod. Not so great when you're trying to fool a child into thinking it's not time to get up yet.

For those that care, they were rather spare with the bathroom amenities (bar of soap, shower cap, shoe mitt on the bathroom counter, body wash, shampoo and conditioning rinse from Bliss in the bath) but we didn't mind - we usually bring our own anyhow and it must save money, trees, parts of the Amazon rainforest and a polar bear or two. (The several unexpected doodads they put on the minibar - from a teddy bear to an intimacy kit, ooh la la - might make up for those that like "stuff", but those are all for purchase.)

One other feature that was cool for the childless but maybe not so cool for parents of toddlers: the sliding door on the bathroom. It's a great spacesaver and makes complete sense in the room. With an opaque glass inset, it slides easily into place, but there was no lock - meaning it slid OUT of place just as easily. D literally caught the paternal unit with his pants down more than once, and giggled mercilessly. So much for privacy...

Room Service: The excellent Todd English's Olives New York restaurant is downstairs providing wonderful fare both in-restaurant and in your room. For room service, there is a child menu, with the usual faves: chicken fingers (which they were out of), hamburgers, mac and cheese, etc. When we ordered and included D, they were sweet enough to add 2 boxes of candy hearts gratis just for her. It warmed our hearts. It also pissed us off slightly. Of course, we loved that they added a special something for her. But the gentleman who brought our order up made a big deal of pointing them out to D, which made it all the harder to get her to eat her food first and not hit the candy immediately. Long after he left we were engaged in conversation, including tears and drama, about why we have to eat our food before the candy. It began to get very Rain Man. Note to management: Very thoughtful touch, but how about something healthier (we'd even take an oatmeal cookie) and placing it discreetly on the tray so that parents can decide if and when Junior gets it? We're not ungrateful, really; it's just hard to fight the lure of candy...

Restaurant: We ate at Olives for breakfast in the midst of downtown business people wheeling and dealing. There was enough on the menu to keep D happy : cold cereals, oatmeal, sausages, etc. All of the food was quite good, but if you want to save Olives for dinner there are other options in the surrounding area, including the Coffee Shop across Union Square, which also does a nice lunch and is far more fashionable than the name would imply.

Being a W, of course there is the requisite lounge just off the lobby, providing comfortable seating by day and turning into quite the dimly-lit scene at night. There's also the Underbar in the basement which we didn't peep at - why tease ourselves? We didn't get to make a visit on this trip, obviously, but we'll be back.

Fitness & Spa Stuff: The paternal unit tried out the fitness center and loved it. Each treadmill has its own TV - a small thing, maybe, but a luxury when the person already there is into Oprah and you want SportsCenter. The hotel doesn't have a spa but they can arrange for in-room services including mani/pedis or massages.

Other Info: This hotel is dog-friendly: you'll see bowls of kibble and water by the front door, as well as a pet menu alongside the human ones for room service. We love dogs ourselves, but when a big golden retriever got off the elevator and made a lunge for D (who was doing nothing to excite or even attract said dog), we did have to wonder what W would have done if it had bitten D. Maybe something for them (and the growing number of pet-friendly hotels) to think about.

Lastly, W has a Whatever/Whenever service that will provide whatever, well, whenever. As long as its legal, they'll help you do it: you can see some of the more unusual things they've done on their website. Our admittedly lame request came about when we bought salads from Whole Foods Market across Union Square and forgot to get utensils. Whatever/Whenever provided us with full place settings for 3. There was a nominal fee for this service, but given that it made the meal much nicer, it was worth it.

Hmmm...maybe we can get them to redo our basement.

Tuesday, February 6, 2007

Busy Bodies




Kudos to last Sunday's New York Times Travel Section, which hipped us to the website Madallie.com, a children's travel store.

While you can't really reinvent the wheel when it comes to keeping kids occupied on the road, the fun products at Madallie are unique in style. They've got stuffed animals that are so plush and comfy that we're thinking of buying one for ourselves, and their magnetic games - slides and ladders and checkers are a few - put old games in fun new packaging.

Our real faves, though, aren't the games and finger puppets that are in abundance. Instead, we like the pseudo-grownup stuff, like the colorful luggage tags and passport holders. The travel journals also look really cool: they're great for helping kids keep track of what they've seen, done and God forbid, learned on their trips to Peru and Vietnam. There's even some funky stationery for camp or trips, a great tool to introduce kids to the dying art of writing letters instead of emails. (What? You mean people used to write on paper and mail it?)

Now when we prepare for our next trip we can make one online stop for all that "keep busy" stuff. Because isn't there enough stuff to do before traveling already?

Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Baby's Got Back



Backpack, that is.

Maybe you've given your tot his own Louis Vuitton luggage set. Or you've gone the other route and prefer to let your 5-year old drag a Jansen sportsac through the airport.

If you're like us, however, you fall somewhere in the middle. Louis Vuitton, God help us, not yet. But the ubiquitous monotone backpack? Too anonymous and boring. God forbid Junior puts it down at the airport, you'll never find it again.

Enter Little Packrats. This company, created by mother-of-twin-boys Cathy Berse-Hurley, makes backpacks that are creative enough to catch a child's fancy without being too whimsical. They're small enough for a toddler to carry while still being "cool" enough for the teen set. While these bags are not big or sturdy enough to use as checked luggage, they're great for carrying games and other "keep busy" items on board. (Which should reduce the burden on your shoulders by half, no?)

Made of durable vinyl, these will appeal to those who eschew leather. But even fans of animal hide will appreciate the quality of these bags, and with most of them at $40 a pop, you can equip your kid with a full menagerie for school and travel.

Monday, January 29, 2007

Artisans of Leisure

No, we haven't decided to change our name. Artisans of Leisure has been around longer than we have, and they're much more than a blog. To us, they're sort of like, well, GOD. In the form of a travel planner.

Picture this: a family of 12 ranging from a great-grandmother in her 80s to a 3-year old tyke, all heading to Russia. Or a father who gives all of his daughters customized trips to anywhere they want in the world when they turn 15.

Artisans of Leisure has handled all the details of trips like these, and they can handle yours too. What makes them such a standout company in our minds? For one, no age minimums (to which we say fabulous). If you want to head to China with 10-month old Junior in tow, no problem. They'll help arrange babysitters and age-appropriate itineraries, and will happily build in some down time for naps.

As the name would suggest, this is no ordinary group travel company. For one, all the hotels you'll be booked in will be top-notch (hello, spa, goodbye, Elmo). Trips include a private car and driver as well as private transfers to and from the airport. They cover any and every destination around the globe: the website gives examples of itineraries for some of their most-requested destinations, but they 'll plan a trip for just about anywhere your heart desires.

Your itinerary is tailor-made to fit you and the people in your group. While in Vietnam, you might visit the leading national theme park in Saigon as well as drop in on a Buddhist monastery to meet with monks. In England, a drive to Windsor Castle, home of the Queen, could include a stop along the way to play at Legoland, if that's your cup of tea.

And did we mention that oh-so-important word, private? Meaning that when your 10-month old starts screaming his lungs out as you tour Hong Kong, the only ones who'll be bothered are the rest of your family. (Which means, we hope, a little less glaring.)

Because the itineraries are customized for each group (and "group" can be anywhere from 2 people to 20, it's up to you), costs will vary. One thing you can be sure of, though: a vacation that will be worth every pretty penny.

www.artisansofleisure.com 800-214-8144